Your First Time in Kyoto: 18 Things I Wish I'd Known

Two days feels rushed — you'll spend half of it in transit. Three days lets you cover eastern Kyoto, Arashiyama, and still have time for a market morning or tea ceremony. Five days is ideal if you want day trips.

Cherry blossom season (late March–early April) and peak autumn foliage (mid-November) bring millions of visitors. Hotel prices double, temples are shoulder-to-shoulder, and popular restaurants have hour-long waits. If you can, visit in late May, early October, or winter for the same city with a fraction of the people.

Pick up an ICOCA or Welcome Suica from the ticket machines at Kyoto Station (availability varies — check before you fly, as chip shortages have caused temporary suspensions). It works on buses, trains, subways, and convenience stores. Load ¥2,000–3,000 to start. You'll tap in and out of every ride without fumbling for exact change.

Japan has gone increasingly cashless since 2020, and most hotels, chain restaurants, and department stores accept Visa and Mastercard. But smaller restaurants, temple admission windows, market stalls, and many local shops are still cash-only. 7-Eleven and Japan Post ATMs accept most foreign cards. Withdraw ¥10,000–15,000 on arrival and keep a few thousand yen on you as backup.

Kyoto's temples and shrines typically open at 8:30–9 AM and close at 4:30–5 PM. Plan your temple visits for mornings and save evenings for Gion, Pontocho, and dining. The exception is Fushimi Inari, which never closes — it's one of the few shrines you can visit at any hour.

The 10,000 vermilion torii gates are Kyoto's most photographed site — and most crowded. Arrive before 7 AM and you'll have the lower paths nearly to yourself. The full hike to the summit takes about 2 hours. By 10 AM, the lower trail is a slow-moving queue.

Kyoto's subway has only two lines and misses most major sights. The bus network reaches everywhere — Kinkaku-ji, Arashiyama, Gion, Kiyomizu-dera. A single ride is ¥240 (flat rate). Pay when you exit. The Subway & Bus One Day Pass (¥1,100) covers unlimited rides on both and pays for itself after three bus trips and one subway ride. Google Maps handles Kyoto bus routes accurately.

Remove shoes when entering temple buildings (look for the shoe shelf). Speak quietly in temple grounds and on public transport. Many temple interiors prohibit photography — respect the signs. These aren't arbitrary rules; they're the rhythm of a city that has observed them for a thousand years.

This surprises every first-timer. Kyoto (and Japan generally) has very few street bins — you're expected to carry your rubbish home. Bring a small plastic bag in your daypack for wrappers, tissues, and market food packaging. You'll find bins at convenience stores, train stations, and sometimes near vending machines, but not on the street.

Most public restrooms in Kyoto have no paper towels or hand dryers. Every local carries a small handkerchief or tenugui (thin cotton towel). Buy one at any convenience store or department store — they're about ¥300 and double as a sweat cloth in summer. This is one of those tiny things that makes your whole trip more comfortable.

June through September, Kyoto traps heat like a bowl. Temperatures hit 36–38°C with suffocating humidity. If you visit in summer, start temple visits at opening time, rest during the 12–3 PM worst, and carry water constantly. The upside: summer crowds are a fraction of spring and autumn, and evening festivals like Gion Matsuri (July) are spectacular.

Restaurants within 100 metres of major temples charge tourist prices for mediocre food. Walk three blocks in any direction and quality jumps while prices drop. Pontocho alley, Nishiki Market, and the streets around Kyoto Station are where Kyoto actually eats.

The station building itself is worth an hour. The 10th-floor Ramen Street gathers eight regional ramen shops. The Isetan department store basement (depachika) sells beautiful bento, wagashi, and seasonal treats. Coin lockers are on the lower levels — drop your bags and explore.

Traditional Japanese inns (ryokan) in Kyoto book out fast, especially those with private onsen baths and kaiseki dinners included. For spring and autumn, book 3–4 months out. Mid-range business hotels near the station are a practical alternative if you prefer flexibility. Budget ¥8,000–30,000+ per person per night for a ryokan.

During the day, Gion's main street (Hanamikoji-dori) is a river of selfie sticks. Return after 6 PM when the tour buses leave, and the district transforms — paper lanterns glow along the Shirakawa canal, maiko hurry to evening appointments, and the machiya tea houses come alive. This is the Gion worth seeing.

Kyoto is a walking city. Temple compounds are sprawling, Higashiyama is hilly, and the best discoveries happen on foot in narrow alleyways. Bring broken-in shoes with good support. Flip-flops and heels are impractical on temple stone paths and the uneven streets of the old quarters.

Kyoto has over 2,000 temples and 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Trying to cram them all in turns a contemplative city into a checklist marathon. Pick 2–3 major sites per day and leave gaps for wandering, tea breaks, and accidental discoveries. The unplanned moments are often the ones you remember.

Nara (45 minutes by train) offers free-roaming deer and Todai-ji's giant Buddha. Uji (30 minutes) is Japan's matcha capital with Byodo-in temple — the one printed on the ¥10 coin. Both work perfectly as half-day add-ons if you have a fourth or fifth day.

Fushimi Inari at dawn → Higashiyama lanes → Kiyomizu-dera → evening in Gion

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove early → Tenryu-ji Temple → Togetsukyo Bridge → Kinkaku-ji afternoon

Nishiki Market grazing → Nijo Castle → Philosopher's Path → Pontocho dinner